Diagnose no-heat, ignition, cycling, airflow and control faults in gas furnaces across Burnaby's detached homes, townhomes and high-rise strata buildings.
Burnaby
We diagnose and repair gas furnaces throughout Burnaby — Metrotown, Brentwood, Burnaby Heights, East Burnaby, South Burnaby, Edmonds and Capitol Hill. Burnaby's housing stock is diverse: older single-family homes in Burnaby Heights and East Burnaby often have aging furnaces with original ductwork sized for lower-efficiency systems; newer townhomes and condos near Metrotown and Brentwood SkyTrain stations have compact mechanical rooms with limited access. Both situations have specific repair considerations, and we account for them from the outset.
The blower may run but no warm air comes out, or the furnace attempts to ignite, fails and locks out. Common causes: a failed hot-surface igniter, a dirty flame sensor that shuts off gas supply prematurely, a faulty gas valve, or a safety lockout triggered by a previous fault. Older Burnaby homes may still have standing-pilot furnaces with different ignition paths.
Starting and stopping before the home reaches setpoint is usually caused by a high-limit switch tripping from overheating. The limit switch itself is doing its job — the root cause is typically restricted airflow: a clogged filter, closed supply registers, blocked return grilles, or undersized ductwork. In Burnaby townhomes with compact duct runs, return capacity is sometimes marginal and shows up as short-cycling on cold days.
When the fan runs continuously but warm air never arrives, the ignition sequence may be failing quietly before the blower is signalled to stop. This can also occur when a furnace is wired to run the blower independently of the heat call — check the thermostat fan setting first. If set to AUTO and still no heat, have the ignition and gas valve circuits diagnosed.
A loud bang when the burners ignite usually indicates delayed ignition — gas accumulates in the combustion chamber before lighting, then ignites all at once. This can be caused by a dirty burner, a misadjusted gas valve, or a weak igniter. Repeated delayed ignition events stress the heat exchanger and should be addressed promptly.
Grinding from the blower motor often indicates a failing bearing. Squealing may point to a worn belt on older belt-drive blowers, or a dry bearing on direct-drive motors. A failing blower motor can trigger the high-limit switch by reducing airflow — this is another reason cycling and noise sometimes occur together.
A properly operating gas burner produces a stable blue flame. A yellow or orange flame, or one that flickers excessively, may indicate incomplete combustion from a dirty burner, inadequate combustion air, or a compromised heat exchanger. A cracked heat exchanger is a safety concern — combustion products can enter the airstream. This is not a fault to run through; have it assessed.
If you smell gas — a rotten-egg or sulphur odour — near the furnace or anywhere in your home, do not attempt to diagnose or operate the equipment. Leave the building, leave the door open, do not use any electrical switches or open flames, and call FortisBC's emergency line (1-800-663-9911) from outside. Only return when the utility has confirmed it is safe. Do not attempt to adjust gas piping, burner settings, or venting on your own.
Decision Guide
The right path depends on what's failed, the furnace's age and efficiency rating, and how repair cost compares to a new system.
If replacement is the better path, see our furnace installation Burnaby page. If you're considering switching from a furnace to a heat pump, our heat pump vs. furnace BC page covers what's involved in that transition.
Common Questions
Yes. We diagnose and repair gas furnaces throughout Burnaby — Metrotown, Brentwood, South Burnaby, Burnaby Heights, East Burnaby, Edmonds and surrounding areas. Burnaby's housing stock ranges from older single-family homes in Burnaby Heights and East Burnaby with aging furnaces and original ductwork, to newer townhomes and condos near SkyTrain stations with more compact mechanical rooms. Each type has its own repair considerations.
The most common causes are an ignition system fault (failed igniter or flame sensor), a gas valve issue preventing fuel from reaching the burner, a tripped high-limit switch from an overheating event, a failed inducer motor preventing proper venting, or a control board fault. Some of these trigger safety lockouts that prevent operation until the fault is cleared — the furnace may appear to power on but won't fire. Diagnosis identifies the actual cause before any components are replaced.
Short-cycling — starting a heat cycle but shutting off before the home reaches setpoint — is most often caused by a tripping high-limit switch from overheating, which itself is usually a symptom of restricted airflow (dirty filter, blocked vents, undersized return ducts) rather than a primary equipment fault. Other causes include a flame sensor that shuts down prematurely, a heat exchanger fault, or a control board issue. A dirty filter is the simplest check — replace it first, then call for diagnosis if cycling continues.
It depends on the noise. A scraping or grinding sound from the blower can indicate a failing bearing that will worsen quickly. A bang or boom on ignition may suggest delayed ignition from a dirty burner or flame sensor — this puts stress on the heat exchanger over time. Clicking that continues after ignition sometimes indicates a control fault. None of these are safe to run indefinitely. If you smell gas or combustion products, shut the furnace off, ventilate the space, leave the building and call your gas utility before calling for service.
Repair usually makes sense for a furnace under 15 years old with a single failed component — igniter, flame sensor, inducer motor, or control board. An older furnace with a cracked heat exchanger or a pattern of recurring failures may be more economical to replace, particularly if heating efficiency has declined. We give a straight assessment after diagnosis — the right call is in your interest, not ours.
The component that needs repair or replacement, the furnace's age and configuration, the availability of parts for older models, and site access all affect cost. Some repairs — a flame sensor, a capacitor — are straightforward. Others — a failed heat exchanger, an inducer motor on an older furnace — are more involved and warrant a frank conversation about repair-versus-replacement. A diagnostic visit establishes the actual cause and scope before any repair work is quoted.
Helpful information includes the furnace brand, model and age if known, a description of the symptom (what the system is doing, when it started, any error codes or flashing light sequences on the furnace control board), and whether the blower runs even when there's no heat. Any recent filter changes or service history is useful context for the technician.
We diagnose the actual fault before recommending any repair — no guesswork, no pressure toward unnecessary replacement.